Open enrollment help

Don't know which health plan to pick? We'll tell you.

Upload your benefits guide and get a personal report: which plan costs you least, how much to put in your HSA, FSA and 401(k), and what to skip.

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Your benefits reportSee full sample →
Best health plan for you Choose the HSA Plan Saves about $1,180 next year vs. the PPO
  • HSAPut in $2,400. Your employer adds $500.
  • 401(k)Set it to 6% to get the whole match.
  • LifeSkip the extra coverage. The free amount is enough.
  • PDFA checklist of every choice for your enrollment site, as a PDF.

HMO, PPO or the high-deductible one? Most people just guess.

The guide that's supposed to help is written in insurance-speak, and you get a few weeks to decide. So a lot of people pick whatever they had last year, and pay for it all year.

  • HMO or PPO?
  • What's the difference between an HSA and an FSA?
  • How much should I put in my 401(k)?
  • Roth or Traditional?
  • Is the cheapest plan really the cheapest?
  • Do I need the extra life insurance?
  • Should my spouse and I be on the same plan?

The cheapest-looking plan often isn't.

The paycheck deduction is only part of the cost. The deductible, coinsurance and any HSA money from your employer can flip the answer.

Small misses add up all year.

Leave part of your 401(k) match on the table, or put too much in an FSA, and that money is gone.

You're locked in until next year.

Most choices can't change until the next open enrollment, unless you have a life event like a marriage or a new baby.

How the report works

From benefits guide to answers in 3 steps

Get your report $49

Pay once. No subscription, and a 14-day money-back guarantee.

Upload your benefits guide

The PDF from your HR site, or photos of the pages. We pull out every plan and option.

Get your answers

Answer a few simple questions about you and see which plan to pick, how much to put in your HSA, FSA and 401(k), and what to skip.

One price. Every answer.

The free Decoder explains your guide. Your report tells you what to pick.

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Understand what you're looking at

  • Upload your benefits guide
  • Every benefit in plain English, with each term defined
  • The total yearly cost of each health plan
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Best for most people
Your report · one time $49

We tell you what to pick

  • Everything in the free Decoder, plus your personal report
  • The health plan that saves you the most, in dollars
  • Your HSA, FSA and 401(k) amounts, so you never miss the match
  • Life, disability, ESPP, dental, vision and add-ons: keep or skip
  • A checklist for your enrollment site, saved as a PDF
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Couples report $79

Two jobs? Cover everyone for less

  • Everything in the $49 report, for both of you
  • Each on your own plan, or all on one: which costs less
  • Where the kids should go, with spouse surcharges counted
  • Both of your dashboards and checklists
Get our report · $79

One time · covers you both · 14-day refund

Benefits 101

The big questions, answered in plain English

What the words in your guide actually mean. When you're ready, the Decoder applies it to your plans and your numbers.

Health plans

HMO vs PPO: what's the difference?

Both cover the same kinds of care. The difference is how freely you can pick doctors, and what you pay for that freedom.

HMO

Lower cost, smaller network.

  • You choose doctors from the plan's network.
  • You usually pick a primary doctor, who refers you to specialists.
  • Out-of-network care isn't covered, except in emergencies.
  • Premiums and costs are usually lower.

Good fit ifyour doctors are in the network and you want to keep costs down.

PPO

More freedom, higher cost.

  • See any doctor, including specialists, with no referral.
  • Out-of-network care is covered, but you pay more for it.
  • Premiums are usually higher.

Good fit ifyou want to keep a specific doctor, or see specialists without a referral.

You may also see an EPO (like an HMO without referrals) or a high-deductible plan (lower premiums, a higher deductible, and the only kind of plan that lets you use an HSA).

In the Decoder: every plan in your guide side by side, with the total yearly cost of each. Free.

Health accounts

HSA vs FSA: which one can you use?

Both let you pay medical costs with pre-tax money, so each dollar goes further. The rules for keeping that money are very different.

HSA

Your money, for good.

  • Only with an HSA-eligible high-deductible plan.
  • Unspent money rolls over every year, and you can invest it.
  • It stays yours if you change jobs.
  • Tax-free going in, while it grows, and coming out for medical bills.
  • 2027 limit: $4,500 for just you, $9,000 for a family. Employer money counts toward it.

Good fit ifyou're on a high-deductible plan. Many people treat it as a second retirement account.

FSA

Use it or lose it (mostly).

  • Offered alongside most health plans.
  • You pick an amount for the year, and can usually spend all of it from day one.
  • Money you don't spend is mostly lost. Some plans let you carry a little over, or give you extra time.
  • It usually stays behind if you leave your job.

Good fit ifyou have costs you're sure of, like glasses, prescriptions or a planned procedure.

On an HSA plan? You can't also use a regular health FSA, but a limited-purpose FSA for dental and vision works alongside it.

In your report: how much to put in each, based on the care you expect and any money your employer adds. Get my report →

Retirement

How much should I put in my 401(k)?

There's no single right number, but there is a right order.

  1. Get the whole match first.

    If your employer matches what you put in, that's part of your pay. Contribute at least enough to get all of it. For example, a match of 100% of the first 3% plus 50% of the next 2% means you put in 5%.

  2. Then work toward about 15%.

    Many retirement guidelines suggest saving around 15% of your pay each year, counting your employer's match. Starting lower is fine. Many plans can raise it by 1% a year for you.

  3. Know the ceiling.

    For 2026 you can put in up to $24,500 of your own money, and more if you're 50 or older. The IRS announces the next year's limits each fall.

In your report: we read your plan's match formula and show the exact % that gets every dollar of it. Get my report →

Retirement

Roth or Traditional 401(k)?

Same account, same limits. The only question is when you pay the tax: now, or later.

Traditional

Tax break now.

  • Money goes in before income tax, so your take-home pay drops less.
  • You pay income tax when you take it out in retirement.

Often wins ifyou expect a lower tax rate in retirement than you pay today.

Roth

Tax-free later.

  • Money goes in after income tax, so your take-home pay is a bit smaller.
  • Qualified withdrawals in retirement are tax-free, growth included.

Often wins ifyou're early in your career, or expect a higher tax rate later.

Not sure? Many people split their contributions between the two. Not every plan offers a Roth option; your guide will say.

In your report: both options compared with your income, plus the retirement tax rate where Roth starts to win. Get my report →

The words in your guide

5 words that decide what you really pay

Learn these and any health plan makes sense.

PremiumWhat you pay for the plan itself, usually from every paycheck, whether or not you use any care.
DeductibleWhat you pay for care each year before the plan starts sharing the cost. Checkups are usually free even before you reach it.
CoinsuranceYour share of a bill after the deductible. With 20% coinsurance, a $1,000 bill costs you $200.
CopayA flat fee for a visit or prescription, like $25 for a doctor visit.
Out-of-pocket maxThe most you'd pay for covered in-network care in a year. Premiums don't count toward it.

In the Decoder: every term in your guide is defined. Tap one to see what it means. Free.

Every decision in your guide, in one place

Your report covers whatever your employer offers.

Health planWhich one costs you less
HSA & FSAHow much to set aside
401(k) matchThe % that gets all of it
Life insuranceHow much you need
DisabilityPre-tax or after-tax
Stock planWhat the discount is worth
Dental & visionWorth it for you, or not
Add-ons & commuterKeep, skip, or set aside

Questions

What exactly do I get for $49?
A personal report built from your benefits guide and a few answers about you: which health plan costs you least for the year and by how much, how much to put in your HSA or FSA, the 401(k) % that gets your whole match, Roth or Traditional, whether to keep or skip life, disability, the stock plan, dental, vision and add-ons, and a checklist PDF to follow on your enrollment site. One time, no subscription. See a full sample report.
When do I upload my guide?
Right after you pay, you go straight to your Decoder to upload it. If you already tried the free version on this device, your guide carries over.
Is this financial advice?
No. It's education and math. We show what each option costs with the numbers in your guide and the answers you give, and explain how it works. Your plan documents are always the final word, and a licensed professional can give personal advice.
What happens to my benefits guide and answers?
Your guide is sent securely to be read by AI, used only to pull out your benefits details, and not stored by us. What it finds, and everything you type, is saved only in your own browser on this device so you don't have to start over. You can clear it any time from your dashboard.
Why do you ask for my email?
So we can send you a short welcome email with what to check before you enroll, and a reminder before your deadline. It's about two emails a month, and you can unsubscribe any time. We never share your email, and nothing from your benefits guide goes on the list.
What if I don't have my benefits guide?
Your HR or benefits site usually has it as a PDF, often called a "benefits guide" or "enrollment guide." You can also take photos of the pages, or type in the numbers from your enrollment site.
My enrollment deadline already passed. Is this still useful?
Yes, if you're starting a new job or have a life event like a marriage or a new baby. Those open a window to change your benefits mid-year.
My spouse has benefits at work too. Which one do we need?
The Couples report ($79). It reads both of your guides and compares every way to cover your household: each on your own plan, everyone on one, or the kids on either. It counts spouse surcharges and cash for opting out, then builds a dashboard for each of you. The $49 report covers one person's guide.
What if it's not for me?
Email us within 14 days for a full refund. No questions asked.

Still not sure which plan? Let us tell you, for $49.

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